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Linear-pull
(V-brake) adjustment - part identification |
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Brake Lever: mounting
bolt, reach adjustment screw, pivot, barrel adjuster and lock ring. |
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| Fig 1 |
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Brake assembly: brake arms, mounting
bolts, cable pinch bolt, return springs, centering screws. |
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| Fig 2 |
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Brake assembly (continued): noodle, cradle, boot. |
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| Fig 3 |
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Brake pad: mounting nut, concave/convex washers. |
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| Fig 4 |
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(c) Copyright
2006 Community Exchange Bike School. |
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All Rights
Reserved. ExchangeCycleTours.org |
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Last Updated:
11/20/2006. |
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Brake cable: end cap, ball end. |
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| Fig 5 |
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Brake cable housing: ferrules, housing stops. |
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| Fig 6 |
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Linear-pull
(V-brake) pre-adjustment inspection |
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a) Check that the wheel
is seated flush in the dropouts and is trued and centered. |
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| Fig 7 |
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(c) Copyright
2006 Community Exchange Bike School. |
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All Rights
Reserved. ExchangeCycleTours.org |
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Last Updated:
11/20/2006. |
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b)
Check that the brake assembly is properly mounted, relatively centered,
and that the brake arms move freely |
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without
flopping. Check that return spring
is in place and not broken. Also, make sure the spring is inserted into
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the center hole on the
brake boss (part of the frame where the brakes attach). |
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| Fig 8 |
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The mounting bolts should be snug, but not super tight. |
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c)
Check the brake levers for damage, working barrel adjusters, mounting bolts,
and working return |
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springs if applicable. |
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d)
Check the brake housing for damage, sharp bends, and proper length to allow
movement without sharp |
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bends.
Make sure the cable stops on the frame are in good condition, and that there
are ferrules on the |
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housing ends. |
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| Fig 9 |
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(c) Copyright
2006 Community Exchange Bike School. |
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All Rights
Reserved. ExchangeCycleTours.org |
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Last Updated:
11/20/2006. |
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Linear Pull (V-brake) Adjustment |
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1. Set lever position and angle (optional) |
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To
a large extent, the position of the brake levers is a matter of personal
preference. However, the following
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procedure should be done
if the levers are grossly out of position. |
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| Fig 10 |
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Loosen the mounting bolt/nut,
position lever on handlebar and set at 45 degrees to the ground. |
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Tighten the mounting hardware. |
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| Fig
11 |
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| Fig 12 |
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Use the reach adjustment screw
to set the distance between the lever and the handlebar to allow a comfortable
reach. Turning it clockwise will move the lever closer to the bar. |
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(c) Copyright
2006 Community Exchange Bike School. |
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All Rights
Reserved. ExchangeCycleTours.org |
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Last Updated:
11/20/2006. |
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2. Adjust brake pads |
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It's important that the
brake pads contact the rim squarely and in the center of the braking surface.
A misaligned |
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pad may slide off the rim and into the tire or spokes. |
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| Fig 13 |
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Most linear-pull brakes use brake
pads with convex and concave washers which allow them to be angled in any
direction. |
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Also
notice that there are two thicknesses of concave washer on each pad. That
is so you can adjust how far the pads extend from the brake arms.
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| Fig 14 |
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The pads should follow the curve of the rim. |
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(c) Copyright
2006 Community Exchange Bike School. |
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All Rights
Reserved. ExchangeCycleTours.org |
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Last Updated:
11/20/2006. |
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| Fig 15 |
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They should be centered
vertically on braking surface of rim. |
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| Fig 16 |
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And they should contact the rim
at a 90 degree angle to the braking surface. |
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Ideally, at the point of contact,
the brake arms should be at a 90 degree angle to the pads as well. If your
brake arms are at an extreme angle to the pads when the pads contact the
rim, you may need to swap the washers on the brake pad. |
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Generally, brake pads
are set up with toe-in. Toe-in means the leading edge of the pad touches
the rim before |
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the
trailing edge. This counteracts the torque imparted on the brake by the
rim and stops squealing. The standard
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amount
of toe-in is 1mm (the trailing edge of the pad will be 1mm from the rim
when the leading edge makes |
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contact). |
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Many
linear-pull brakes, however, use asymmetrical pads which are designed to
be used with no toe-in. |
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They don't require toe-in
because the longer rear section of the pad resists the twisting forces exerted
on it by the |
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wheel. |
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So the rule of thumb is,
if you have asymmetrical pads set them up without toe-in and only add |
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it if necessary. If your
pads are symmetrical set them up with 1mm of toe-in. |
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| Fig 17 |
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Symmetrical pads should have about 1mm of toe-in. |
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(c) Copyright
2006 Community Exchange Bike School. |
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All Rights
Reserved. ExchangeCycleTours.org |
|
Last Updated:
11/20/2006. |
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| Fig 18 |
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Set asymmetrical pads so they
are parallel to the rim when viewed from above. |
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(Pretend the pad in the picture is asymmetrical) |
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| Fig 19 |
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Brake pads should be adjusted
one at a time. Loosen the brake pad mounting bolt just enough to allow the
pad to move. |
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Keeping your wrench in the brake
pad mounting bolt, manipulate the pad with your other hand. |
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Make small adjustments and check
frequently by snugging up the bolt and pushing the brake pad against the
rim while watching to see how it hits. |
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A
method which can greatly simplify adjustment is to release the spring on
the side you are adjusting and let |
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the spring
in the other arm pull the pad against the rim. |
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| Fig 20 |
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The spring rests on a little
knob on the brake arm. To disconnect it, push the spring in toward the wheel
and move it to the side. |
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(c) Copyright
2006 Community Exchange Bike School. |
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