Cantilever brake adjustment - part identification

Brake assembly: brake arms, mounting bolts, centering screw

Fig 1

Brake cable, link cable, pinch bolt

Fig 2

Older cantilevers use a different style of cable system involving a yoke and transverse cable. The transverse

cable runs between the brake arms and is pulled in the middle by the main brake cable via a hook called the

yoke. This procedure will focus on the newer, link cable style shown.

Last Updated: 1/19/07

Brake pad, brake mounting bolt/nut

Fig 3

Cantilever brake adjustment

1. Set lever position and angle (optional)

To a large extent, the position of the brake levers is a matter of personal preference. However, the following

procedure should be done if the levers are grossly out of position.

Fig 4

Loosen the mounting bolt/nut, position lever on handlebar and set at 45 degrees to the ground.

Tighten the mounting hardware.

Last Updated: 1/19/07

Fig 5

Fig 6

Use the reach adjustment screw to set the distance between the lever and the handlebar to allow a comfortable reach. Turning it clockwise will move the lever closer to the bar.

2. Lube the cables.

For the brakes to function efficiently, the cables should be lubed where they pass through the cable housing.

Fig 7

Create slack in the cable by disconnecting the brake.

Disconnect the brake by unhooking the link cable from the brake arm.

If you are unable to unhook the link cable, you may need to release the cable at the pinch bolt to create slack.

Fig 8

Once the brakes are disconnected there should be enough slack to remove the cable housing from the housing stops on the frame.

Slide the housing back out of the stop and lift the cable through the slot in the stop.

Last Updated: 1/19/07

Fig 9

Slide the housing along the cable to expose the hidden sections of cable.

Apply a thin coat of oil to the cable (Tri-Flo works well).

Move the housing back into position and reseat the cable, reconnect the link cable. Give the lever a few squeezes to distribute the oil in the housing.

3. Set the proper brake arm angle

Cantilever brakes work best when the brake arms set at the proper angle. Since the distance that the brake

pads extend from the brake arms is adjustable, it's important to set the brake arm angle before adjusting the

pads.

Fig 10

Picture a line connecting the mounting bolt and brake pad mounting bolt on each brake arm. These lines should be close to parallel.

Brake arm angle is set by adjusting the brake cable tension.

Fig 11

First, back the brake lever adjuster barrel out three turns.

Fig 12

Loosen the cable pinch bolt and adjust the cable tension for optimum brake arm angle.

If you need to move the brake arms closer together (shortening the cable) but can't because the brake pads hit the rim, you need to loosen the brake pad mounting nuts and move the pads out of the way.

When the brake arms are set, tighten the cable pinch bolt.

2. Adjust brake pads

Squeeze the lever to seat the cable.

4. Adjust the brake pads

The pads should be lined up to the rim in two directions, make contact with the rim at a 90 degree angle,

and have about 1mm of toe-in.

Fig 13

The pads should follow the curve of the rim.

Fig 14

They should be centered vertically on braking surface of the rim.

Last Updated: 1/19/07

Fig 15

And they should contact the rim at a 90 degree angle to the braking surface.

The pads should be set up with toe-in. Toe-in means the leading edge of the pad touches the rim before

the trailing edge. This counteracts the torque imparted on the brake by the rim and stops squealing. The

standard amount of toe-in is 1mm (the trailing edge of the pad will be 1mm from the rim when the leading

edge makes contact).

Fig 16

Adjust the pads so that they are both in contact with the rim at their leading edge (trailing edge will be 1mm

from the rim).

Fig 17

Brake pads should be adjusted one at a time.

With an allen wrench holding the brake pad mounting bolt, loosen the brake pad mounting nut enough to allow the pad to move.

Since we want to preserve the angle of the brake arms, adjust the pads toward or away from the rim by sliding them through the mounting bolts, rather than swinging the brake arms.

5. Centering the brake

For a firm feel at the lever, and to make sure one pad doesn't drag on the rim as you ride, brakes need to be

centered so that both pads contact the rim at the same time.

Fig 18

Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until the pads are about 1/8" from the rim.

Last Updated: 1/19/07

Now, adjust the brake so the gaps between the rim and the pads are equal on both sides.

Fig 19

Most cantilever brakes come equipped with a centering screw on one arm.

Increasing the tension (turning the screw clockwise) will move that side further from the rim. Turning the screw counterclockwise will move that side closer to the rim.

Fig 20

A good way to check that both pads are contacting at the same time is to give the wheel a spin and squeeze the lever gradually until one of the pads rubs the rim and stops the wheel (hold the lever still as soon as you detect contact).

Then, squeeze the lever further and observe which pad continues to move toward the rim. If the right pad moves, the brake is too far to the right, if the left moves, it’s too far to the left.

6. Final Check

Squeeze the levers a few times, make sure they feel good and that both levers engage similarly. Spin the

wheel and look and listen for any rubbing. Take the bike for a ride to test the brakes. They should stop

quietly, smoothly, and effectively.

If your brakes squeal you may need to toe in the pads a bit more.

On certain low-end generic brake pad/rim combinations, it may be impossible to eliminate all brake squeal.

Last Updated: 1/19/07