Chain Removal and Installation

Step 1: Tool Identification and Use, Identification of Chain Type

Shown at left is the Park Tools USA CT-3 chain tool. It has a handle, a plunger with a replaceable tip, and two sets of teeth.

Each set of teeth is designed to hold the chain for a specific task. It is important to use the correct set of teeth for a specific task.

The primary teeth on this chain tool are used to disassemble a chain, to remove extra links, and to reassemble the chain. The secondary set of teeth on this particular chain tool can be used to loosen a stiff link.

There are many different types of chains, all of which may have different disassembly and installation procedures.

A chain is composed of multiple links. Each link has two inner plates, and two outer plates. It also has rivets, which are metal pins that are press fit into holes in each plate to hold the plates together. Each rivet is covered by a roller, which is a ring of metal that spins freely around the rivet.

The most basic type of chain is a single speed chain. The rivets on a single speed chain protrude a significant distance beyond the end of the outer plates. This is the type of chain which is generally disassembled and reassembled with a chain tool and the original rivet.

A five or six speed chain will usually have rivets that protrude significantly. The end of the rivets may also be peened or enlarged, to prevent the outer plate from slipping off the end of the rivet. This makes the chain stronger and less likely to break during shifting, or other lateral loads.

A five or six speed chain can also be disassembled and assembled using a chain tool and the original rivet. But if the rivet is peened, then the chain will not be quite as strong when it is reassembled because the peening on the end of the rivet will have been worn off from disassembly.

A seven, eight, nine or ten speed chain will have rivets that protrude very little beyond the end of the outer plate, and the rivets are peened on the end. This keeps the rivets from slipping out of the plates on the chain.

If you disassemble one of these chains with a chain tool, the link that you pushed the rivet out of will no longer be as strong because the flared end on the rivet will have been shorn off when it was pushed through the hole in the outer plate. And the hole that the rivet was pushed through will be slightly enlarged.

Never reassemble a 7, 8, 9, or 10 speed chain with the old rivet that you removed to disassemble the chain. The chain will be significantly weaker.

This type of chain must be reassembled either with a new special rivet every time it is put together, or with a quick release type link as discussed below.

When removing and installing this type of chain with a special rivet, completely remove the old rivet, and use a brand new rivet to reassemble the chain.

For a chain with a special assembly rivet, follow the instructions for standard chain removal to disassemble the chain.

To install the chain, carefully follow the manufacturers instructions for chain installation, making sure to use a new special installation rivet.

There are also chains that come with a quick release link of some sort, that allows the chain to be disassembled and reassembled repeatedly without using a chain tool. Any chain can come with one of these links, regardless of the number of speeds it is compatible with.

If your chain has a quick release link, you would only need a chain tool to shorten the chain upon installation.

Step 2: Chain Removal

Shift the chain onto the smallest chainring in the front, and the smallest gear in the back. This position will put the least tension on the chain.

If your chain has a quick release, follow the manufacturers recommended disassembly procedure.

Some quick release links have a clip that you pry off with a screwdriver.

Other links will actually be two identical halves that slide together and lock into place.

If your chain does not have a quick release link, you will use a chain tool to push a rivet out of one link, and pull the chain apart.

Unscrew the plunger on the chain tool until the tip is far enough back to slide the chain onto the primary teeth of the chain tool.

Center a single roller on the chain directly between the primary teeth on the chain tool, and start turning the plunger until it contacts the end of the rivet.

Turn the plunger until the rivet looks like it is most of the way out.

You do not want to completely remove the rivet as that will make it extremely difficult to re-assemble the chain.
(If you have a chain that requires a new rivet for reassembly, then you will need to completely remove the rivet.)

If you are not sure how far the rivet is pushed out, stop and proceed to the next step.

Gently bend the link that you are disassembling toward you and pull the chain apart.

If the chain does not pull apart easily, you will need to push the rivet out a little bit farther, then try to pull it apart again.

Do not force the chain apart, as bending the links too much could permanently damage them.

The chain should pull apart easily.

Now that the chain is disassembled, it can be completely removed for cleaning, replacement, or to measure the chain and add or remove links as necessary to attain the desired length.

Step 3: Measuring The Chain (optional)

This Procedure can also be used to measure and properly size a new chain for installation.

Pull the chain out of the rear derailleur, and place it on the largest rear cog.

Place the chain on the largest front chainring.

Pull the two ends of the chain together, and check how many links the chain overlaps.

One full link consists of both an inner plate and outer plate. Half a link is either an inner plate, or an outer plate.

The chain should overlap 1.5 to 2 full links. This will ensure that the chain is long enough to wrap around the largest gears, but not so long that it flops around in the smallest gear combinations.

If you need to remove a link, or half a link, follow the same procedure for disassembling the chain.

Note that the two ends of the chain need to be one inner link and one outer link, so that they can connect to one another.

Also note that if you are using a quick release type link, you have to remember to consider that extra link in your chain measurement.

If you measure the chain without the quick release attached, it should have 1 - 1.5 overlapping links, not 1.5 - 2 overlapping links. When you add the quick release link, the chain will then have an extra 1.5 - 2 full links.

Usually, the quick release link is an outer link, so the two ends of the chain both have to be inner links after you have adjusted its length.

Step 4: Chain Reassembly

This step utilizes a special tool to assist in assembling the chain. You can follow this procedure without this aid if you wish.

This tool (shown at left) is merely a spoke, or a piece of wire that has been bent into a U shape about 4 inches across, with the ends trimmed to 2 inches long.

As shown below, this tool is used to hold two ends of chain together while they are under tension.

Route the chain over the smallest chainring, and the smallest rear cog.

Pass the chain between the two derailleur pulleys, pulling it out toward the back.

Wrap the chain around the bottom pulley.

Make sure that the chain is resting on the derailleur pulleys, not on any part of the derailleur cageplate.

Pull the two ends of the chain together.

Insert the two ends of the U shaped tool into the spaces between the rollers of two chain links on opposite ends of the chain.

Make sure that there is enough excess chain so that the two ends can easily be connected.

At this point, if you are using a quick release link, you will need to follow the manufacturers instructions to connect the chain.

Bring the two ends of the chain together.

If you are reusing the rivet that you drove out to disassemble the chain, then slide the inner and outer plates of the chain together to connect the chain.

Slide the link that you are closing over the primary teeth on the chain tool, with the rivet protruding toward the plunger of chain tool.

If necessary, unscrew the plunger on the chain tool until there is enough space to set the chain onto the primary teeth.

Screw the plunger on the chain tool in (clockwise) until the rivet is protruding past the edge of the opposite outer chain plate.

Look at the end of the rivet that the chain tool is pushing on. This end of the rivet should protrude an amount equal to it's neighbors and the rest of the chain.

If necessary, turn the plunger another 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn to get the end of the rivet to protrude the right amount.

If you have already pushed the rivet too far in, then you will have to remove the chain tool, rotate it around the chain, and drive the rivet the opposite direction from the other side of the chain.

Once you have one side of the rivet protruding the correct distance from the outer plate of the chain, then the link will likely be stiff, or difficult to bend.

In order to remedy this problem, flip the chain tool around to the opposite side of the chain, and place the stiff link over the secondary teeth on the chain tool.

Turn the plunger clockwise just until it contacts the rivet, then another 1/16th to an 1/8th of a turn.

Remove the chain tool and check to see if the link is still stiff. Also check to see that the rivet protrudes evenly from either side of the chain. If the ends of the rivet are not even, you will need to use the chain tool to push the rivet slightly one way or another.

Consult an instructor if necessary.

Once the rivet is properly set in the chain link, remove the chain tool and the U shaped tool.

Spin the cranks and shift through the gears, checking to make sure that the chain is running smoothly through the gears, and that there are no stiff links.

If one of the links is stiff, make sure that the chain is well oiled.

Then, if necessary, use the secondary set of teeth on the chain tool to loosen the link by pushing on the rivet from one side.